I started this discussion on another site, not to be named here. But since then, I’ve learned a few things.
The vehicle is my '83 P’up. I replaced my bench seat with buckets, and now I need to replace the seat belts with a set from a bucket seat equipped vehicle. Otherwise, I have to fumble around the floor to find the buckle every time I get into the truck. And my originals are worse than grungey. At first (over on that other site) I was looking for only the inner (receiver / female) ends, thinking I’d keep my original belts. I learned that the ones from the Trooper are not as wide, and thus the buckles are not compatible. I’ve also explored an aftermarket replacement from seatbeltsplus.com. It looks good, but it is designed for the retractor to mount on the floor. The P’up has it mounted on the side post, just below shoulder level (maybe 18" above the floor. The guy at seatbeltsplus.com told me that theirs should mount just fine there, but that it might not retract enough to take up the additional 18" of belt.
So I’m back to looking at Trooper seat belts – not the inner receiver pieces, but the whole set. I’m trying to determine if I can swap it all.
So, question: Does the 1st generation Trooper have its retractor mounted midway up like mine (pictured below), or is it mounted on the floor?
You can put more pretention on the retractor spring by unrolling the belt to the ‘drum’ Remove the belt retaining Bar thingy then turn the drum a few more turns then putting the belt back on..
Infact.. If your units aren’t in bad shape, you vould just insert the ‘new’ belt onto your retractor mech..?
I understand. There is some background discussion on that other website that is important here. Since I changed the bench seat out for bucket seats, I need to replace the receiver ends with the type that stand up from the floor. I have not been able to find that type in the same width as my belts.
So, replacing the belt material is not the only objective here.
The manufacturers I spoke with today do not offer just the finished belts without retractors. And if I buy the entire assemblies, their belts are too long.
Wait a minute. I can’t tell from your photo, but are you telling me that the retractor end can be shortened? I assumed it had a finished end. No?
I will call that company back tomorrow and confirm.
Wasn’t following real close, but you could cut the loop, shorten the belt, and sew a new loop in. It would be stupid simple to do, and any polyester thread (look up what people use for hockey pads) would work just fine. I sewed up some ladder straps for my 32’ ladder and they’ll hold the ladder just fine doing 110mph. I wouldn’t be worried about strength at all, especially since the belt wouldn’t be fully stretched out during any impact.
Since you’re already sewing, it wouldn’t be too difficult to just create a loop guide that you attach to the seat. It wouldn’t be as fancy as a rigid guide, but it would at least hold the buckle up where you can find it. Could also have someone 3D print you a guide I imagine.
Sorry, I got confused, I saw the picture of the female end laying on the floor, so I was thinking that was the side you were searching for. Now I have a better idea what you’re asking.
I just looked at my Trooper, and there is just a plastic rivet through the belt that holds the buckle up. Wouldn’t that be the easy solution to the buckle on the floor problem? Maybe I’m still not understanding.
And just to clarify, when I was talking about cutting the belt to shorten it, I meant the very end loop. The sewing is just to hold it on the bar thingy. Once the belt goes around the bar one or two wraps, there is no more tension on the sewn threads. Think of it like a winch. Once it’s wrapped around the drum once or twice, it doesn’t matter if the other end is loose because all the tension.
And how do you quote people like you did with me? I haven’t figured that out on this site yet.
1st gen Troopers had a stalk mounted buckle. I want that.
Unfortunately, the picture of it is in the original discussion on the site some of us are banned from. Oh, I just remembered, I also posted it in isuzupup.com. Here’s what I want:
Okay, I think I’m tracking. I think all my suggestions are going to be alternatives for if you can’t get what you want from putting together factory parts. My first suggestion of a belt guide, was in reference to that part. A loop attached to the seat, just to help locate the buckle.
Yes, the 1st Gen. Trooper retractors are mounted halfway up the pillar.
2 notes:
Run on sentence- If one has ever towed their Trooper and ‘roped’ the steering wheel to assist backing up without the front wheels going where they want to, by using the driver’s seatbelt as the rope through the steering wheel center/bottom ‘spoke’, they have probably found there is JUST ENOUGH seatbelt to allow that to happen. Don’t cut the belt to shorten it if you want to still be able to do that ‘roping’.
The other thing is that I have tried to apply more tension to my retraction-action. I disassembled the unit as much as needed, and applied all the possible tension there was available. It wasn’t enough, although only slightly better. I did this on 4 units in 2 Troopers to get what I could, but I still have to ‘help’ them manually back into their park position. They need new retractor springs which are likely Unobtainium.
I just put up with it and help them back to start. My wife just lets them HANG! Shocking, not in the least, LOL.
Used assemblies will save your scrouging through the cab, and be original Isuzu, but they will likely leave you wanting.
@JoeIsuzu
Mr Rogers…
Of course they don’t just sell the belt material..
The complete unit is an approved assembly.
You have to remove it yourself
Bro.
And if the extra length of the belt is only the same as the distance between the two different mounting points?
I’d be surprised if there wasn’t enough room for that extra to spool on the drum?
With seat belts..
There’s usually f all differences between different applications of a retractor that mounts in the same orientation.
Eg.
If a retractor mounts upside down with the bolt up the top on a Holden.
A seat belt that mounts the same way in a Toyota will more than likely fit the Holden application. Asides maybe a little location tab being slightly different or something.
@2zuzus
Did you actually pull the whole unit apart to get to the Clock spring?
I just removed the belt material and gave it a few more rotations and put the material back in..
But having said that.
My Drivers side one has began to get lazy again.
But the passenger side is still going strong.
Subject to change with the amount of use i guess.
Oh, I just remembered, I also posted it in 