Yes, I did get into the clock spring and wound as much as possible without doing damage.
I have rebuilt too many recoil starters, : ), and this was a less painful version of them.
I did the fabric rewind as you mention as well.
The springs are older, subject to fatigue from many cycles, and environmental impact of dirt and moisture. The belting has suffered from the same stresses plus it is capable of stretching more so than metal. These assemblies are getting tired.
I am pleased to read that you have had success to one degree and another with your endeavors! Amen.
It’s too bad none of us can really turn back the clock(spring), LOL.
I had a long talk with Paul Catalano today (there are no short talks with Paul ). We compared the 1983 P’UP seat belt retractor to the 1988 Pickup retractor. They are not interchangeable – too long from point “A” to point “B” (see below).
Incidentally, I spoke with someone at https://seatbeltplanet.com today and they will rebuild my seatbelts with new webbing, buckles, and stalk-mounted receivers for $360. That sounds high compared to salvaged parts but not astronomical for new ones. That would probably be a last resort.
Trooper retractor matches your dimensions exactly. It’s 3 1/2"wide. The lower belt mounting bolt is appx 2" off the floor. The upper belt mounting bolt is appx 39" off the floor. The belt will extend appx 5’ from the retracted position. Trooper seat sits appx 11" above floor. That’s at the point about 5"-6" in front of the seat back, where your butt sets. Hope that makes sense. Look like your color? Post preview doesn’t show pic, hope it goes through. First time I’ve tried on this site.
Pulled the rest about dark yesterday. I’m about positive that the retractors are the same, not side specific. The latch/female side are the same except for the switch in the driver’s side for the seat belt buzzer. Message me an address. I usually use USPS as it’s easier to go to the P.O. than run in to town to the UPS store.
I had the front and rear windshields reinstalled today. The techs at the shop just shook their heads in disbelief that it was installed without gaskets. I had to give up my chrome trim on the gasket, but this whole project has involved some tradeoffs like that. I’m over it. ;)
Thursday, I’m scheduled to have a shop troubleshoot my power steering. I imagine that will cost me.
And between now and Thursday, I hope to work on wirebrushing and vacuuming debris from the floor pan before installing KILMAT sound deadening sheets.
if you havent bought it already, look at Ice Shield for roofs. it is basically the same thing and you can get it wider, and locally at most Home Depot/Lowes. with a heat gun its pretty pliable and can be doubled up in areas. Do a sqft comparison on costs. Think Grace is the brand.
I was initially planning to leave the roof alone, because I have never removed a headliner. But I’m so deep into this now, the headliner is just one more step (and I keep doing “just one more step” ). So, I’ll take a look at Ice Shield. And that reminds me, I’ve already been told I need a heat gun. Do you have any recommendations for a heat gun that may never be used again?
If you’re referring to ice and water shield, that has zero sound deadening qualities. All it is, is rubberized bitumen that is to prevent ice damming. Often it is granulated as well. If it offers sound deadening, it would only be because you just added a heavy layer of tar to the roof. Are people using it as sound deadening because it’s thin and self-adhesive? I’ve not heard of this in the auto world yet. I have a big roll of it left over from when I had all my roofs replaced from hail. I’m kind of interested now.
). We compared the 1983 P’UP seat belt retractor to the 1988 Pickup retractor. They are not interchangeable – too long from point “A” to point “B” (see below).
Please don’t forget me!
